THE NEGATIVE EFFECTS OF SOME COSMETIC PROCEDURES: PROTECTION POSSIBILITIES, MEDICAL AND PREVENTIVE AGENTS (REVIEW)

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Cosmetic procedures which are implemented by the cosmeticians are becoming more in-demand year by year. The popularity of the procedures like chemical pealing of superficial and medial level, fractional laser thermolysis, microdermabrasion, mesotherapy, biorevitalization, selective impulse phototherapy (photo-rejuvenation) is conditioned by their high clinic efficiency and good esthetic result, which leads to psychological and social comfort of patients and influence positively their life quality [11]. These types of intervention which are implemented for the inpatients are the medical procedures and require a certain rehabilitation approach, during which the patients should use the certain pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical agents in home conditions for the acceleration of regeneration process and stopping of the associated complications [22]. Mesotherapy is based on the injection of low doses of drugs into a middle skin level (percutaneous injection) locregionally and at the distance from the affected organ to obtain a dermatologic effect from the drugs injected as well as from the effect of physical stimulation (injections). Antioxidant, vasoactive, moistering, toning agents which have an effect on fibroblasts are used to eliminate the atony and skin dryness, face and neck tissues tone reduction [21]. Dermatocosmetological products, chemical pealing, microdermabrasion, laser resurfacing, mesotherapy, benign disease, they are associated with primary affections of epidermis and derma. The majority of the complications, which expand after the cosmetic intervention, are non-specific and are formed not only as a result of the direct affection of the skin cover wholeness (maceration, scaring, infection), but as a consequence of an inflamma-tion response expansion (anti-inflammatory hyperpigmentation etc). The biggest part of the undesirable responses can be preliminary forecasted and prevented. It is shown that right skin preparing for the procedures and an adequate rehabilitation period conduction. In case of allergic reaction of patients during the mesotherapy, the reason for this is intolerance of some agents injected. To reduce the side effects in form of allergic reactions it is necessary to conduct a thorough survey, examination, and diagnostics of a patient. Allergic responses on the drugs injected into mesoderm have its peculiarities: it is always limited by the derma area, with associated external swelling, intense itching, and moderate hyperemia. In the setting of diffuse hyperemia there is a papula over every injection. The drugs are kept in mesoderm during 2 weeks, therefore the allergy manifestations will be stable during all this time. external swelling, intense itching, and moderate hyperemia. In the setting of diffuse hyperemia there is a papula over every injection. The drugs are kept in mesoderm during 2 weeks, therefore the allergy manifestations will be stable during all this time. As a rule, the appliance of antihistaminic drugs perorally or intramuscularly injec-tion of glucocorticosteroids does not give a desirable effect. This is conditioned by the peculiarity of a mesotherapeutic method: allergen is placed in mesoderm, and allergic response is manifested at the same place, higher than in a vascular net. External appliance of hormonal creams and ointments also does not give a desirable effect. Besides, there is a function of fi which is extremely undesirable for the rejuvenating procedures. The principal therapy should be directed at the erythema and itching elimination with the use of antipruritic agents for external use. It is also recommended injecting an antihistaminic drug (solution of Tavigil, Suprastin) mesotherapeutically, i.e. directly into the affection zone. While conducting a chemical pealing the corresponding response can develop into its separate components or agents of post-pealing care. In case of signified itching, growing erythema, swelling, it is recommended injecting the antihistamine or steroidal drugs intramuscularly (tavegil, hydrocortisone, dexamethasone, prednisolone), because the prescription of ste- roid creams is ill-efficient. It is necessary to re- member that a thoroughly gathered anamnesis will allow significant reduction of the risk of these side effects expansion [21, 23]. The choice for the external dosage forms of H -antihistaminic drugs on the pharmaceutical market of Russia is not high, however they exist [1, 2, 8, 10, 14]. All external dosage forms of the anti-histaminic drugs on the Russian market are represented by the foreign producers [13, 16, 17, 41, 42]. Unfortunately there were no domestic Н -histaminic drugs for external use on the market [9, 12, 25, 40] (table 1). What concerns the side effect of the drugs presented, which are possible, sometimes there can be a temporary feeling of dryness or skin burning, in isolated cases there can be allergic responses from skin [5, 6, 24, 41, 45]. Soventol and Psilo-balsam expect a sedative action on a human’s nervous system [5]. Not only H -histamine blockers are used in practical medicine for the treatment and pre- vention of skin allergic responses, but also the drugs on the basis of phytocompositions [15, 43]. There is Histan cream on the Russian market, which has allergic eruptions on skin of face, hand, and body, skin itching, hives, vesicuar allergic manifestations on skin, psoriasis, eczema, neurodermatitis, insects stings, allergic eruptions on skin under the influence of sun rays in its indication. The content of Histan includes dimeticone, cyclometicone, betulin, lily-of-the-valley oil, extracts of birch buds, Veronica spicata, Bidens, Viola, Calendula, Euphorbia, Empetrum [28]. We also registered the cosmetic agents for the anti-allergic action. ArgoVasnaVita gel, which has chitosan, wheat germ oil, castor oil, melaleuca oil, silver ions, is prescribed in for the anesthesia, itching, swellings, for insect stings treatment, scratches, burning wound healing, allergic skin irritation elimination [3]. Millenium gel is used in clinical cosmetology as an anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, anti-allergic agent. The gel augments the protective properties of skin, its immunity, strengthening its vessels walls, and eliminating a skin sloughing. It is used in a complex treatment of acne, pimples, and inflammation processes of skin, and significantly helps to re- duce skin eruptions. Gel composition includes Aloe barbadensis juice, Ginkgo biloba extract, Panax quinquefolia extract, Equisetum arvense extract, Camellia sinensis extract, centella asiatica extract, wheat protein extract (hydrolyzed wheat protein) [27]. Paller gel is applied as an anti-allergic, cicatrizing cosmetic agent. It is recommended as an associate agent for the treatment of eczema, dermatitis, sunburns, shallow shakes, scratches, and insect stings. The active substances of the gel are Rosa canina oil, Bidens oil, essential oils of Lavandula gen., Leptospermum scoparium, Mentha, lemon, chamomile [7]. Vertex pharmaceutical company produces La Kri cream, destined to reduce the irritations, itchings, skin reddening after the insect stings and plant burns. Active components of gels are extracts of Bidens, Glycyrrhiza, Viola, Juglans regia, bisabolol, panthenol [20]. Vitaprinol cream biologically active supplement is produced in Russia, which is applied for eczemas, psoriasis, hives, atopic dermatitis (neurodermatitis), acne eruption. Cream com- position includes Lipoderm Bio for the sensitive skin, vitamin complex Lyposentol Multi (with vitamins A and E, phospholipids, polyunsaturated fatty acids Omega-3 and Omega-6), glycerine [18]. Solhinol cream is recommended by the producers for the allergic dermatoses of different origin, polyarthritis, herpes, inflammation diseases of a locomotor apparatus, and for the restoration of the elasticity and the elimination of dryness, peeling, and crevices of skin. The cream is made of combined lyposomic base. It contains an extract of Glycyrrhiza root, Echina- cea juice, extract of polar lipids of high-miner- alized curative lake muds [19]. The whole series of Tselitel creams is man- ufactured in Ukraine. Allergostop cream is de- signed for the elimination of inflammations, skin irritations, itchings, provoked by different allergens. Antikus cream is designed for the efficient help in burns, insect stings, and injuries treatment. Its exclusively natural composition immediately eliminated itching and pain, has a sedative action of the skin irritations and swellings, does not contain synthetic components [4]. Comple therapy of inflammation skin diseases, associated with itching, also includes homeopathic drugs. Iricar is a homeopathic ointment which contains a matrix infusion of Cardiospermum halicacabum, which is used for eczema, neurodermatitis, atopic and other dermatitis treatment as well as for the consequences of the insect bites [44]. Urtica-GF homeopathic ointment is used for allergic dermatosis treatment. It contains graphite C6, Calendula officinalis flowers C3, calcium carbonate C6, hot Urtica C3, Apis mellifera C3, sulfur C3. Urtica-GF is recommended for the combined use with other homeopathic drugs Petroleum-plus, which contains Petroleum, graphites, Belladonna atropa, Silicea terra, Urtica urens, sulfur, Echinacea purpurea. Indications: diathesis, eczema, hives, neurodermatitis, pyoderma, skin crevices, immunity activation, acute, subacute, and chronic changes of skin of general and local character, sunburns [39]. The analysis of patent literature revealed an insignificant number of patented ointments and gels for different skin responses treatment. So, there is a gel with anti-inflammatory and antiallergic action with betamethasone dipropionate as an active substance. The authors used Vaseline combination with solid wax, paraffinic oil, and antioxidant, propylene glycol, trilon B, emulsifier, ether of p-hydroxybenzoic acid [37]. Composition for the treatment of wounds, burns, contact and allergic dermatitis, with the product of microbiological synthesis of filamentous fungus Mucor lusitanicus BKMF-306 D with linolenic acid was patented. It differed by the additional content of ointment, cream or gel or emulsion or liniment base [30]. We have found a pharmaceutical composition for the treatment of burns, which includes N-(-hydroxyethyl)-4,6-dimethyl-dihydropy- rimidine-2 (xymedon) active substance and base forming agents, which differed by the con- tent of gel former as a base forming agent. It is represented by the sodium salts of biopolymers, glycerine moisture-holding agent, stabilizer, preservative agent, and distilled water [34]. It is supposed that the appearance of anti-allergic properties in a patented gel composition with triptantrin and chitosan. This invention is formed as a gel composition with wound healing, anti-burns, anti-inflammatory, hepatoprotective, anti-diabetes, and antitumor activity [36]. Foreign authors formed a patent on a composition of nimesulide and cetirizine, as anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic composition. They described the ways of obtainment of different dosage forms of the composition offered, including gel, which was designed for the hives treatment [33]. Foreign authors patented the agents with anti-allergic and anti-inflammation activity in the skin affection of non-microbial genesis [32]. There is an invention which belongs to the composition which oppress lipoxygenase and prostaglandin-H-synthase with biologically active substances, primarily for the topic application in veterinary and medicine. They have anti-allergic and anti-inflammatory activities for the skin affections of non-microbial genesis, as for example psoriasis, skin eczemas, fibro proliferative diseases, allergic diseases [29]. An ointment for the treatment of in-flammation and allergic skin affections with beta-carotin and pharmaceutically accepted carrier was patented. It differed by the fact that it has an additional sea buckthorn oil, and an excipient of methyl cellulose and propylene glycol as a carrier [31]. To treat the problem skin with psoriasis, dermatitis, itching, and burnings, the gel with extracts of Equisetum arvense 0.2%, Ribes nigrum 0.1%, Aesculus hippocastanum 0.2% [35]. Therapy with corticosteroids, which are represented by a wide range of external dosage forms on the Russian market, is an alternative treatment for the local allergic responses. Their principal clinic effects are anti-inflammatory and immunodepressive effects. They are used for the treatment of the non-infectious inflammation skin diseases (atopic dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis, contact dermatitis, pruritus, lichen planus, and other types of dermatitis). They only eliminate the symptoms of inflammations in the treatment period; however aggravations may occur after the drug cancellation. They are prescribed for the symptomatic relief and suppression of the disease signs in cases when non-hormonal treatment is ineffective [38]. The treatment with this group of drugs should be carried out under the doctor’s care. The existing clinical data give evidence about the fact that the higher is the medical activity of the local corticosteroid the higher is the risk of the expansion of negative effects. In addition they surface faster from the start of the drug use. All negative effects of the local corticosteroids can be divided into three groups [26]. As we can see in the table 2, the first group includes negative effects, provoked by the local corticosteroids, and the ones dependent on its pharmacological properties. The second group is represented by the allergic responses on the dosage forms components. And a separated third group includes negative effects, provoked by the long terms of the use of this type of drugs. The efficacy and tolerance for the external use drugs depend not only on the acting start of a drug but also on the dosage form [42]. Therefore it is reasonable to work out external dosage forms of antihistaminic drugs, which do not have a wide range. The gels of antihistaminic action used for treatment and prevention are represented mainly by the foreign producers. Thus, the creation of the domestic analogues can become a quite effective scientific and practical direction considering an import substitution.

About the authors

A. V Majorova

People’s Friendship University of Russia

Email: medesta@yandex.ru
Moscow

K. N Koryanova

Pyatigorsk Medical and Pharmaceutical Institute - branch of Volgograd State Medical University of the Ministry of Health of Russia

Email: kskor-16@mail.ru
Pyatigorsk

E. F Stepanova

Pyatigorsk Medical and Pharmaceutical Institute - branch of Volgograd State Medical University of the Ministry of Health of Russia

Email: EFStapanova@yandex.ru
Pyatigorsk

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